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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.